It was funny you know, but I almost felt sick leaving Ragusa Ibla the other day. My seven days there were wonderful and I could have easily stayed longer… My B&B hosts, sisters Giovanna and Carmela treated me with such kindness and genuine hospitality that I almost felt like family. Giovanna in particular seemed to take a shine to me and we had lots of wonderful  conversations. I think they both thought it a little strange that I  wasn’t rushing out the door every morning to go sightseeing or exploring but I didn’t feel as if I needed to. I’ve been to Ragusa before and saw all the main sites last time. This time was just about being there…

Most days I spent a leisurely morning in the beautiful garden at the B&B. It started with a filling and delicious breakfast of local fresh ricotta, home made jams, cheeses, salami, home made sundried tomatoes, fruit, assorted breads and pastries and even a mini dessert that Giovanna would make every day! The first day they served me a bit of everything and then I could choose the other days. Most days I couldn’t go past the fresh ricotta with the homemade fig jam on a bit of toast. I would then roll off the table onto a sun lounge, lap up some sun and journal or catch up with Facebook!

Nearly every afternoon except for the days I went out of the town, I would go for a stroll through the Piazza San Giorgio and down the main street. Whilst Ragusa Ibla is popular with tourists, keen to see the beautiful Baroque architecture, it doesn’t feel over run or over commercialised. This town feels as if it is, as it was, a sleepy village full of locals going about their business. Shop keepers standing in their doorways chatting with friends, the same groups of old men sitting in the Piazza on the benches or in front of cafes, chatting or playing cards, the same families having their afternoon walk , the same children kicking a ball or riding their bikes.

Even though I smiled at the old men as I  walked past, I always felt as if they eyed me a little warily. I’m not sure these men of tradition quite approved of a woman travelling alone. I would get that sense in some of the restaurants I ate at as well. I get it, after all for Italians and Sicilians in particular, the sharing of a meal is very important. It is meant to be done with family and friends. Socialising seems to be a non negotiable aspect of life here. Of course it would always be my preference to be enjoying a meal with someone, but I’ve actually learnt to enjoy eating out on my own. I’m quite enjoying my own company these days!

One of the highlights of my week in Ragusa Ibla was my day spent at the beach at Marina di Ragusa. I had perfect weather all week with sunny skies and temperatures in the mid  20’s. I  was lucky enough to find a restaurant on the beach still open. Most places shut down after the summer. I set myself up on one of their sun lounges, ordered a drink and soaked up the sun. The sky was a clear cerulean canopy. An onshore breeze whipped at the water and created little frenzys of foam. I ventured into the water to find it still had its summer warmth. I savoured the delicious dumping over my head of the choppy waves. It was blissfully freeing to be in the sea and I let go of any residue of anxiety from my time in Catania. I need no more convincing that being near the sea soothes me more than anything else in the world, so if anyone has a beach house for sale please let me know! 😉

My other excursion from Ragusa was to the nearby town of Noto. Well it looks like it’s  not far, on the map, but it took nearly 2hours in the bus! Noto is noted for it’s Baroque architecture too and it has one of the biggest cathedrals in Sicily. It is certainly an imposing structure that dominates a wide pedestrian street called “Il Corso.” I had a nice wander along that street but to be honest I just wasn’t feeling it so after 2 hours I caught a bus back to Ragusa.

It was tempting to think I had wasted my day primarily sitting in a bus just to see another church! But nothing is ever a waste of time if you look at it otherwise. I realised I had enjoyed observing the landscape on the journey there and in fact scribbled in my journal as words came to mind……”This is harsh country. Everywhere there are rocky outcrops and cliffs which the towns cling to. In the valleys below, the fields that have been ploughed still harbour rocks and stones. The arbors of olive trees grow sideways against the steepness of the land. Any greenery is faded by the sun and foliage is a bleached olive green. Prickly and tenacious, all plants grow here despite the aridness. The astringent blue sky is a constant in the eternity of this land. Everywhere the dry stone walls are a reminder that man has tried to divide, conquer and own a piece of it…. The Ragusani, too, have this inbuilt tenacity, for life, for work, for humour, for hospitality to their ancient place in the sun.”

Being in Ragusa felt like home in so many ways and certainly reinforced the parts of me that are Italian. There is something very special about being able to connect with your heritage in such a tangible way as I have. On my last day I actually walked down the street where my maternal grandfather’s house was. It was a narrow hilly street of old stone houses  with worn wooden doors. Number 28 Via Aquila Sveva was no different to the other houses in the street. It’s doorway was small. The painted and plastered, stone arched lintel, over the door, was cracked, peeling and stripped back to bare in places. It was unremarkable really, but what did I expect?  This old city set high in rugged and unforgiving land, the birthplace of my ancestors was a tough place to be.

I am so grateful for my life, easy as it is, and perhaps, no certainly, because of the hardships and sacrifices my ancestors made as a result of being born here in Ragusa Ibla .